Angers, France, an experience waiting for you.

Paris to Angers was a 1 ½ hour train trip on the TGV which has a top speed of 300 kms an hour.We used a French Saverpass rail pass, getting 4 days unlimited first class travel within a month. The first class ride was a bonus as we kept our eyes out for specials on the internet and bought it online through Rail Europe, for $US294.00 for two, cheaper than second class tickets we had seen on sale elsewhere. The tickets arrived in good time and were very easy to validate as soon as we arrived in Paris from London.To check on current bargains with Rail Europe click here.

The weather is cold and crisp in December in Angers, so hats, scarves, gloves, coats and warm shoes are needed. The temperature dropped to -5°C occasionally, hence the frozen fountain in the middle of the city pictured to the right, but all the buildings are heated, so it won't be a problem if you have  the right clothing. If not, treat yourself in Angers as the shops offer stunning leather shoes, boots and coats, all with  the classic French chic.We wore sport shoes, the only people in the whole city who did, if the continual stares at our feet were an indication!

Angers is known for Château d'Angers, celebrated by the locals for being the home for Roi René, before the reign of Louis X1. It was a fully moated castle, now with grass and knot gardens in the moat, on the Loire River. It's 17 huge towers dominate any  trip into the city and inside are housed the Apocalypse tapestries. These  77 pieces of 12th century tapestry were rescued from the local dump when the previous owner no longer had room for them. They are now restored to their former splendour and open to the public along with the apartments, towers and prisons that lie within.

The Château is in  the centre of the city and an easy walk from the Cathédrale St Maurice, and the December attractions.

We walked the city in the evening, as the shops don't shut until 7pm, and it was alive with activity and things to see. Just 8 days before Christmas the carol singers were singing familiar Christmas Carols in Latin, hot food stalls surrounded the central area, Père Nöel , in full and real beard, was meeting  all the children as he wandered, and the shops offered tantalising shopping.

Our hosts took us to the outdoor market to collect the ingredients for their Sunday afternoon meal, and an evening meal. Both teachers, we were lucky to be there on a weekend when they could take us with them on their regular shopping trip for fresh ingredients.Fresh oysters, mussels,fresh turkey breasts, mâche,(a green leafed salad vegetable) olives and cheeses were bought but the market also offered all manner of poultry, spices, vegetables, and fruit.An afternoon of learning to shuck oysters followed as the dinner was prepared which included the classic French mussels in wine dish, fresh oysters with lemon, and the famous Loire Valley apple dish Tarte Tatin. French drinking chocolate and Loire Valley wine, paté, salad and baguettes were also included in the 2½  hour meal. Normally in a home hosting situation,lunch and dinner is not included in the host responsibility but we were lucky enough to be invited to share this amazing feast,and two other wonderful meals which introduced us to the best in French cooking, and the sophisticated way the French eat.

To reproduce this feast, I recommend Culinaire French, a cook book that takes you on a tour of all the different parts of France, and introduces you to the regional food specialities. If we had been in a home exchange situation in France, we would have taken this book to shop for ingredients at the local French markets, and try out the recipes.